Ton Sai

Ton Sai is a beach near Krabi in Thailand, offering a combination of inexpensive accommodation and great rock climbing routes that make it popular with both backpackers and climbers alike. Compared to neighbouring Rai Leh and Ao Nang it's relatively rough around on the edges; in particular, the beach is unsuitable for swimming and becomes quite rocky as the tide goes out.

There's no overland access to Ton Sai, so all visitors arrive by boat. Rai Leh is a two minute long-tail ride or a 10-15 minute walk away, while long-tails from Ao Nang to Rai Leh will also stop at Ton Sai on demand.

There are three ways to reach Rai Leh on foot:

1) At low tide it's possible to walk around the rocky outcrop which separates Ton Sai from Rai Leh (10 minutes).

2) At high tide, most opt for the steep path which climbs up and over the rocky outcrop, which is densely covered with foliage (10 minutes).

3) The least used option is a longer trail which starts on the northern, forested, edge of Ton Sai and meanders past bungalows, thick jungle, and eventually to the back of Rai Leh, near the Diamond Cave area (20 minutes).

None of these options are possible at night without a flashlight/torch, and the jungle paths can be slippery and treacherous after the rain. At any time all three routes can be awkward and tricky for all but the fit and able-bodied so don't feel bad about taking the easy, scenic, and relaxing long-tail to get across.

The only way to get around Ton Sai is on foot. The beach and the main road act as the primary through fares for the area. It may take five minutes or less to cover the entire area. During heavy rains, the dirt road becomes muddy and treacherous.

Rock climbing is the primary draw for visitors, with Ton Sai offering as many routes as Rai Leh, and hosting a number of climbing schools and guiding companies, including:

PhraNang Adventures specializes in all inclusive custom packages. Offers camp and climb on Ko Lao Liang.

Wee's Rock Climbing School offers a variety of courses and has a gear shop. Course prices range from 800 baht for intro courses to 8000 baht for five day advanced courses. Also organises Deep Water soloing trips.

Playing with fire -- Ton Sai could well be the world centre for fire tricks: light something on fire, twirl it in the air, that's the basic idea. A lot of climbers can be found on the beach during their rest days practicing.

SCUBA Diving

Hydra Divers, tel: +66 84 627 5227,. The only dive centre at Tonsai Beach will guide you to the underwater world.

There are several restaurants and bars on the beach and most bungalow operators have restaurants as well. Beware that many operations in Ton Sai are not electrified throughout the day meaning that unless they are careful with food storage you'll end up with a nasty case of food poisoning.

There are several bars on the beach, several of which (oddly enough) feature non-stop reggae music. A popular climber's hang out is Ton Sai Roof, at the east end of the beach, where the routes begin at the foot of Freedom bar.

All accommodation is set off of the beach and tends to be of the bamboo bungalow variety, and a little more rustic (and certainly more affordable though prices have more than tripled over the past five years) than at Rai Leh. Rubbish piles and noisy generators are common nuisances.

Andaman Nature Resort - set well off the beach near the base of the cliffs, the basic bamboo bungalows are popular with budget travelers. The Andaman is largest collection of bungalows in Ton Sai. Rates are around 800 baht during the high season for a basic room with private bathroom. 100-150 baht during low season.

Country Side Resort - set back behind the beach (follow the path up the hill from the internet cafe, and take the right-hand fork - follow the signs), this set of 10 bungalows or so are lovely, well-kept and have views. Each is built on stilts, with its own deck, clean tiled bathroom, single or double beds, many windows and a wall of three glass doors opening onto the porch. During low season it is the best deal on Ton Sai at 150 baht. During high season the rate may rise to 7-800 baht. Fea cooks a mean meal, with plenty of helpful advice and smiles. The downside, as elsewhere, is ongoing construction across the street - not a big intrusion since most days are spent at the beach, on the water or on the side of a mountain.

Contacting some of the bungalow operators for reservations can be difficult. Some of the climbing schools including Wee's (he updates the price list for the bungalows each year as well) will book reservations for a flat fee.

Ko Siboya

Ko Siboya (see-boy-ya) is off the regular tourist trail. Other than the island's one resort, you will find only a few local stalls selling household supplies, snacks and petrol as you explore the local culture. Ko Siboya is home to about a 1000 or so residents whose work is mainly in the rubber plantations or fishing. Dirt roads and foot paths connect the 4 or 5 small communities on this 3 x 10 km island. The lack of easy access to the island has limited transportation to either motorcycles or walking. A new community clinic is able to handle minor medical problems.

Ko Siboya escaped the destruction of the crushing tsunami of December 2004, as it was in the lee of Ko Jum, but did have to deal with the high water surge which devastated the island's fishing fleet.

Get in

From Krabi Town there are three possibilities:

charter a private longtail boat (about 1000 baht)
take a songthaew to Nua Klong (on the southern highway towards Trang), where you can transfer to another songthaew to the coastal village of Laem Kruad; from there hire a longtail or wait for the somewhat scheduled ferry over to the east shore of Ko Siboya. Then hitch a ride with a local, walk the 3 Km or call Siboya Bungalows for a pick-up.
take a songthaew to Laem Hin (departures at 11:00 & 15:00, takes 1 hour, costs 50 baht); from there take the on-demand longtail public ferry to Laem Soma on Ko Siboya (20 baht)
You can arrange any of these trips yourself. Alternatively, go to the Siboya Guest House across from the GPO, they make sure a truck is there to take you to the bungalows (50 baht per person). If you take the ferry and arrive unannounced you'll have to snag a ride on a motor cycle; everyone on the island is very friendly just ask and don't forget to tip!

Siboya Bungalows is off the regular tourist trail, located on the island of Ko Siboya (see-boy-ya) about 20 kilometers south of Krabi Town in Southern Thailand. Siboya Bungalows has been the only commercial enterprise on the island until the 2001-02 season when another bungalow resort opened about 2 kilometers north along the beach. Other than these 2 businesses, you will find only a few local stalls selling household supplies, snacks and petrol. Ko Siboya is home to about a 1000 or so residents whose work is mainly in the rubber plantations or fishing.

Dirt roads and foot paths connect the 4 or 5 small communities on this 3 x 10 kilometer island. The lack of easy access to the island has limited transportation to either motorcycles or walking. A Community Clinic is able to handle minor medical problems. As you might have guessed by now, Siboya Bungalows is a delightfully quiet place to relax. Don't forget... the lost art of goofing off is alive and well here.

But... don't come to Siboya bungalows for the beach unless you enjoy the solitude of leisurely walks along the uninhabited kilometers, waiting for the tide to come in for a swim, an amazing abundance of beach creatures, rocks and mangroves to explore as well as the gathering place for the spectacular sunsets.

The restaurant will delight you with some of the finest Thai cooking in the South. This reputation alone is starting to bring first timers and repeats to Siboya Bungalows. Some of Kaew's culinary tasteful treats are now being taught in North American cooking schools, and have been featured in "New Thai Cuisine". Western fare typical to the area is also available. Why not try some of their wonderful delicious recipes at home!

The 20 or so bungalows are situated at a comfortable distance from the restaurant in Mr. Chung's wonderful garden. He has surrounded each bungalow with huge colorful bougainvillea and hibiscus. The back units are shaded in a cashew grove. In front of the bungalows is an expansive groomed lawn that was once a rice paddy. One part has been converted to courts for badminton and takraw (the national Thai sport, a cross between hacky-sac and volley ball).

NOTE: Siboya Bungalows has NO access to the Internet.

Krabi People

People of Krabi

Cave paintings and artifacts found around Krabi indicate that the area has been inhabited since prehistoric times.

Today the people of Krabi represent a mix of three different ethnic groups who came to settle from other regions. It is said that each ethnic group has written a page in Krabi's rich history.

The origins of the Chao Ley or "Sea Gypsies" are unknown. Living mainly on the islands, these nomadic people live in small settlements and earn their living from fishing, collecting shells and diving.

They still retain their own language and beliefs and spiritual worship is still strong in the community. Although overexposure to tourism, and inevitable assimilation with mainstream culture is unfortunately threatening their small communities.

Some of their traditional ways are celebrated at the yearly sea gypsy sailing ritual held in May on Koh Lanta, Koh Pu and Koh Cha and various ceremonies are still celebrated within the community.

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, immigrants from southern China flocked to Thailand in search of work. Many assimilated into Thai society but their descendants still retain their Chinese heritage and are prominent in the business community. Many still speak Chinese dialects, have Chinese (and Thai) names, and observe Chinese rituals and religious beliefs which form part of the local culture.

Krabi is also home to many Muslim communities, due to its close proximity to Malaysia and strong ethnic ties with the border provinces, providing a rich diversity to the area.

Getting Around in Krabi

Renting cars, bus, taxi, motorbike or boat

Rent a Car

Krabi has a good road network, especially around the national parks and local attractions, so hiring a car and driving yourself is easy. Car Hire is available at most hotel desks or travel agents.

Taxis & Local Busses

Open-air buses, (Songtaews) converted trucks and motorcycle taxis provide a cheap and efficient public transport service throughout the province. Fares vary according to the destination - whether you're running around town, or travelling from Krabi Town to one of the beach resorts. Services are efficient and regular with buses stopping wherever you want to get on or off.

Better still, rent a Songtaew (taxi truck) to drive you round for the day.

Longtail Boats & Ferries

From Krabi Town
Krabi Town, as well as being the provincial capital, is also the main harbour for local boat services.

Ferries operate to the Phi Phi Islands, Jum Island and Lanta Island, catch the boats from Chao Fah Pier (Krabi Town).


Note:
Some services stop during the monsoon season (May-October) and are substituted by a combined bus and long-tail boat system which operates from small harbours along the coast.

If you don't want to use this system, a private transfer is the only choice for certain islands like Lanta Island. The 2 car ferries, which connect the island to the mainland operate from 07:00 to 19:00. Transfer time from Krabi about 2 hours.

Longtail Boats

From Ao Nang/Railay
The coast is also well served by local "longtail" taxi boats. Fast, reliable and inexpensive, these boats depart from Ao Nang Beach (just go to the seafront) to Railay, Phra Nang and Krabi town.

Fares average around 50 - 80 Baht depending on your destination and the time of day (more expensive after sunset) The boats operate regularly between Ao Nang and Railey (they leave when there are enough passengers) and operate year round (subject to weather conditions.)

NOTE: Prices of local longtail boats are fixed so don't bother bargaining unless you are hiring the whole boat.

Krabi Weather & Climate

Krabi's current weather and climate guide

Climate

Krabi follows a similar climate to Phuket with average temperatures around 75ºF to 89ºF (24ºC to 32ºC) year round.

Cool

The best time to visit Krabi is November to March when humidity and temperatures average 28C and cool breezes keep things comfortable.

Hot

The hottest time is April - May, with temperatures ranging from 80ºF to 95ºF (27ºC up to 36ºC). There are frequent short heavy thundery showers, offering welcome relief from the temperature and humidity.

The Thai New Year (Songkran) occurs on April 13th and everyone sprinkles (or throws) cool water on each other (see picture).

Locals enjoy June, July and August, since the weather is usually fine and favourite haunts remain uncrowded. The usual pattern is brief but heavy showers, with plenty of sunshine between downpours. Everything is a little less expensive at this time of year, as well. Temperatures range between 70ºF and 90ºF (20ºC to 33ºC).

Wet

During September and early October we start to remember our umbrellas. This makes an ideal time to visit abroad. One consolation for those who remain is that the beaches, outdoor restaurants and streets are relatively uncluttered by visitors. And even at this time, we still get long intervals of sunshine between the heavy showers. Anyway, plenty of low season activities, both water- and land-based, still offer themselves in Krabi during this wettest part of the summer season.